When it comes to hair, most people only think of the hair you can see. The scalp, however, contains the most important part of the hair, the part that allows the hair to grow. The hair follicle (also called hair root) is located beneath the scalp and has to function properly in order to maintain healthy hair. A hair follicle is about 4 to 6 millimeters in length. Each follicle produces one to four hair shafts, each being about 0.1 millimeter in size. So, these hair shafts are very small.
When it comes to hair, most people only think of the hair you can see. The scalp, however, contains the most important part of the hair, the part that allows the hair to grow. The hair follicle (also called hair root) is located beneath the scalp and has to function properly in order to maintain healthy hair. A hair follicle is about 4 to 6 millimeters in length. Each follicle produces one to four hair shafts, each being about 0.1 millimeter in size. So, these hair shafts are very small.
The hair does not grow in individual strands, but develops from the scalp in groups of one to four and sometimes even five or six strands. Hair follicles are arranged in naturally occurring groups, called follicular groups.
Phases of hair growth
About 90% of your hair is actively growing. Normally, the hair grows at a rate of about 1.25 cm per month. The catagen phase is the transition phase between the growth and resting phase. During this phase, the hair follicle withdraws and detaches from the hypodermis (where it gets its nutrients). The hair root disappears, and the root end turns into a knot-like shape.
The hair growth cycle
Hair growth occurs in cycles, and each strand of hair on your scalp follows this process. There are three main phases of the hair growth cycle.
About 90% of your hair is actively growing. This is called, unsurprisingly, the growth phase. Normally, the hair grows at a rate of about 1.25 cm per month. The catagen phase is the transition phase between the growth and resting phase. During this phase, the hair follicle withdraws and detaches from the hypodermis (where it gets its nutrients). The hair root disappears, and the root end turns into a knot-like shape.
1. Anagen Phase (Growth Phase)
The anagen phase is the most important part of hair growth. During this phase:
Hair actively grows from the hair follicle at a rate of approximately 1 centimetre per month.
This phase can last anywhere from 2 to 7 years, depending on genetics and health.
At any given time, 85-90% of the hair on your scalp is in this growth phase.
2. Catagen Phase (Transition Phase)
This short, transitional phase lasts about 2–3 weeks. During the catagen phase:
The hair follicle shrinks and detaches from the blood supply.
Growth stops, and the hair prepares to shed.
Only about 1-2% of hair is in this phase at any given time.
3. Telogen Phase (Resting Phase)
The telogen phase is a resting period lasting about 3 months:
The follicle remains dormant, and the hair is eventually shed.
On average, we shed 50–100 hairs per day, which is normal and part of this cycle.
Around 10-15% of your hair is in this phase at any given time.
About 1 percent of the hair is in the catagen phase. This phase generally lasts about one to two weeks. The rest of the hair is not actively growing and is in the resting phase, also called the telogen phase. This phase lasts about three to five months with a healthy scalp.
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People lose about 100 hairs per day. The presence of much more hair on your brush, in the sink in your bath can be a first sign of excessive hair loss.
What influences hair growth?
Several factors determine how fast and thick your hair grows. These include:
Genetics
Your genes play a primary role in determining the length of your anagen phase, your hair density, and its thickness. If your parents experienced thinning hair or hair loss, you may be more likely to face the same challenges.
Hormones
Hormones like testosterone and dihydrotestosterone (DHT) influence hair growth. While testosterone stimulates hair in some areas (like facial hair), DHT can shrink scalp follicles, leading to thinning and hair loss in genetically susceptible individuals.
Protein: Hair is primarily made of keratin, a protein. A protein-rich diet supports strong and healthy hair.
Iron and Zinc: These minerals aid in oxygen delivery to hair follicles and tissue repair.
Vitamins A, D, E, and B7 (Biotin): Support scalp health, hair strength, and growth.
Scalp health
A healthy scalp creates the ideal environment for hair growth. Issues like dandruff, inflammation, or fungal infections can disrupt the hair growth cycle.
Stress and lifestyle
Chronic stress can push hair follicles into the telogen (resting) phase prematurely, causing temporary shedding known as telogen effluvium. Sleep, hydration, and regular exercise also impact hair health.
How to support healthy hair growth
Although you can’t change your genetics, you can take steps to promote healthy hair growth. Firstly, it is important to maintain a balanced diet. A diet rich in lean proteins, leafy greens, nuts, seeds, and fatty fish provides essential nutrients for hair health. Consider supplements like biotin or iron if dietary intake is insufficient or difficult to maintain.
Secondly, practice good scalp care. Wash your hair regularly to prevent build-up and dandruff. Use a mild shampoo that doesn’t strip away natural oils. Or use a hair growth stimulating shampoo from brands like Neofollics or DS Laboratories.
It is also important to avoid damaging practices. Minimize heat styling and chemical treatments that weaken hair. Avoid tight hairstyles that cause traction alopecia, a form of hair loss from pulling on follicles.
What also helps is to avoid stressful events. Stress has been proven to be a factor in hair loss. Long time exposure to stress will have negative effects on the body, including the quality of your hair and hair growth. You can combat this by incorporating relaxation techniques like meditation or yoga into your routine. Chronic stress can lead to hair shedding and disrupt the growth cycle.
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Sadly, not fast enough for most people when they're dealing with hair loss. But hair growth is a complex biological process influenced by genetics, hormones, nutrition, and lifestyle. While the growth cycle follows its own natural rhythm, you can take steps to support healthy hair through proven hair growth treatments, proper care and diet. Understanding how hair grows is the first step toward making informed decisions for your hair care routine.
